{"title":"Tinte de relleno de COLOURLOCK","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eStabilizing brittle leather with COLOURLOCK Filler\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is COLOURLOCK Filler? A pigment-free binder for brittle, micro-cracked leather surfaces: COLOURLOCK \"Binder\" (Neutral) penetrates the weakened topcoat of pigmented smooth leather, elastically bonds loose fibers from within, and restores the surface's structural integrity for leather color and topcoat.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFiller\u003c\/strong\u003e is the work step between priming and coloring: a pigment-free, highly elastic binder that holds a brittle leather surface back together. The name is misleading — it does not actually dye anything. The filler fills micro-cracks in the existing pigment layer, binds frayed fibers, and creates the substrate required for leather color to be applied evenly and adhere permanently. At COLOURLOCK, this task is performed by the neutral Binder.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\n\u003cstrong\u003ePigment-free, therefore invisible.\u003c\/strong\u003e The filler contains no colorants and changes neither the shade nor the gloss level. This means for you: You can apply it to an area that is still color-accurate and you won't see any difference afterwards — except that the surface will feel closed and smooth again instead of rough and fibrous.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\n\u003cstrong\u003ePenetrating instead of build-up.\u003c\/strong\u003e A filler adds mass to the surface, but this binder soaks in. It penetrates the broken topcoat, surrounds loose pigment particles, and bonds them flexibly to one another — the repair happens beneath the surface, not on top of it. You can tell because the grain remains visible; nothing looks smeared.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\n\u003cstrong\u003eElastic enough for folds.\u003c\/strong\u003e Water-based polyurethane binders for leather achieve elongation at break values exceeding 170 percent, far more than one and a half times their original length. Practically speaking: the stabilized surface moves with every entry and every steering movement instead of tearing back open like a fine net on the first cold morning. Available in 250 ml and 1000 ml \/ 1 liter sizes.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eProfessional tip from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e The most common mistake is already hidden in the term \"filler\" — many people expect a putty and apply it accordingly thick. That is exactly what ruins the result: a heavy layer dries on the outside, remains soft on the inside, becomes gummy, and tears sooner than the leather underneath. We regularly receive inquiries from customers whose refinished seat bolster showed fine cracks again after a few weeks, and almost always the first layer was applied too heavily. The opposite is correct: apply thinly using a sponge, swab, or brush, let it dry briefly, then apply the next layer. Two thin layers are better than one thick one — and if the surface still feels unstable after the second layer, add a third, not a thicker one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFiller does not provide color, it provides durability\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen leather ages, the color disappears first, followed by its structural integrity. The filler takes care of the second part — the one you only notice when you touch it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePigmented smooth leather has a thin, closed topcoat on the grain. Sun, friction, and skin oils attack this polymer over the years: it becomes brittle, loses its bond to the fibers underneath, and develops microscopic cracks. This becomes visible long before a real crack appears — as a matte, rough zone on the seat bolster, entry edge, or steering wheel rim that feels dull and slightly fibrous. If you run your finger over it, there is a slight drag.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is exactly where the binder comes in. It is a water-based dispersion, meaning ultra-fine polymer particles suspended in water. After application, the water evaporates, and the particles flow together into a cohesive film — coating chemistry calls this film formation. Because this binder is formulated to be thin and penetrating, this happens not just on the surface, but in the broken gaps of the old topcoat. In other words: It acts like a glue that pulls back together from the inside what has drifted apart.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTiming determines the effort. A surface that is merely brittle needs two to three thin layers and is then load-bearing again. The same surface a year later, with visible hairline cracks and frayed edges, additionally requires filler, intermediate sanding, and usually a complete recoloring from seam to seam. Taking the rough texture seriously early on saves you the elaborate process later.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe neutral binder is the binding agent of this category\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThere is one product in this category, and it intentionally has only one task: COLOURLOCK \"Binder\" (Neutral).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eNeutral here means without any pigment. The binder does not change the color of the surface; it does not lighten, darken, or shift the gloss level toward a greasy look. This is why it also works where you do not want to change the color at all: a dark leather sofa with a rough seat can be stabilized without having to search for a color match.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIts typical areas of use are where clothing rubs constantly. In the car, these are the driver's seat bolster, entry edge, armrest, and steering wheel rim; in furniture, the front edge of the seat and the armrests; for bags, belts, and leather jackets, the crease and grip zones. In all these places, the topcoat is the first to become brittle, while the rest of the surface still looks flawless.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo sizes cover realistic project needs. The 250 ml format is for a single bolster, a steering wheel, or a sofa edge — with enough left over for a second pass, which is almost always needed. The liter is the workshop size for complete seating sets that are stabilized over the entire surface before a spray gun is used. In our experience, DIY users are almost always right with the small container: the binder is applied thinly, and an opened bottle lasts a long time if stored frost-free.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFiller, body filler, and leather color solve three different types of damage\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThree product groups that all sound like repairs work on three completely different problems. Confusing them means working on the wrong type of damage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFiller is for surface brittleness. No loss of material, no holes — the substance is still there, it just no longer holds together. This is the case where your fingernail doesn't catch anywhere, but the surface feels rough and crackles slightly when pressed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ca href=\"\/es\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-reparatur-leder-fuellstoffe\"\u003eLeather fillers\u003c\/a\u003e are for the opposite case: actual loss of material. COLOURLOCK \"Filler\" (Black) and COLOURLOCK \"Filler\" (White) provide elastic mass for craters, nicks, and worn-through areas and are sanded finely after drying. If your fingernail catches in a crack, you need filler — not a binder. For deeper, heat-curing repairs, \u003ca href=\"\/es\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-reparatur-spachtelmasse\"\u003eputty\u003c\/a\u003e is available.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ca href=\"\/es\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-faerben-deckende-lederfarbe\"\u003eOpaque leather color\u003c\/a\u003e finally provides pigment. COLOURLOCK \"Leather Colour\" builds a new color layer in thin coats when nothing of the original tone is left. It does not repair anything, it covers — and it only covers permanently if the surface underneath is sound.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis leads to a simple \"if-then\" logic. If the surface is rough but intact, start with the filler. If material is missing, start with the body filler and then use the filler over the transitions if necessary. If both are fine and only the tone looks dull, skip the whole process and stick to the \u003ca href=\"\/es\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-faerben-farbauffrischer\"\u003ecolor refresher\u003c\/a\u003e. In our consulting, this is exactly the question we clarify most often: most customers overestimate their damage and underestimate the preparation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eDegrease, let dry thinly, sand in between, only then color\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA binder only binds to what it reaches. Anything between the binder and the leather is a release layer — and release layers are the reason why leather repairs fail.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat is why the process starts with cleaning using a \u003ca href=\"\/es\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-reinigung-lederreiniger\"\u003eleather cleaner\u003c\/a\u003e and a soft brush, followed by the step almost everyone skips: degreasing with COLOURLOCK \"Degreaser\". It is only finished when a white cotton cloth no longer picks up any color. Anyone who uses brake cleaner, acetone, or denatured alcohol instead will remove the grease but also attack the tanning in the fiber — after that, no system from any manufacturer will hold in that spot.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn difficult, heavily silicone-contaminated, or very smooth surfaces, use a \u003ca href=\"\/es\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-faerben-grundierung\"\u003eprimer\u003c\/a\u003e before the filler: COLOURLOCK \"Leather Primer\" as an adhesion bridge, COLOURLOCK \"Blocker\" as a barrier layer if denim dye transfer is showing through. With intact, cleanly degreased smooth leather, you can skip this step — but it is better not to for older leather with a long history of care products.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThen comes the binder, applied in several fine layers using a sponge, swab, or brush. Let it dry briefly between layers, sand lightly with a very fine leather sanding pad for deeper irregularities, and remove sanding dust with a microfiber cloth. The application temperature is about 18 to 24 degrees Celsius: below this, the polymer particles do not flow together cleanly; above this, the surface dries before the binder has penetrated.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOnly then does the color application begin — depending on the case, with a color refresher or opaque leather color, finished with the \u003ca href=\"\/es\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-faerben-top-coat\"\u003etop coat\u003c\/a\u003e as a wear layer. Use the \u003ca href=\"\/es\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-faerben-additive\"\u003eadditives\u003c\/a\u003e to adjust the finish: the Crosslinker makes color and top coat more durable, the Duller lowers the gloss level, and Soft Slip and Wax Slip determine the feel. At the end is the part that no product can shorten: chemical cross-linking takes 24 to 48 hours, and for that long, neither jeans nor re-greasing care products belong on the surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the filler ends and the upholsterer begins\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA binder can hold a weakened structure together. It cannot replace a destroyed one — and that line is sharper than most expect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe first limit is the type of leather. Aniline, nubuck, suede, and Alcantara are open-pored and have no topcoat that could be stabilized. A binder will saturate the fiber structure there, make the surface stiff, and take away exactly what you bought the leather for. A drop of water in an inconspicuous spot clarifies this in thirty seconds: if it soaks in and darkens the spot, the leather requires \u003ca href=\"\/es\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-pflege-anilinleder\"\u003eaniline leather care\u003c\/a\u003e, not a binder.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe second limit is actual loss of substance. If the fiber network beneath the grain is torn or punctured, no chemical can withstand the tensile forces that occur when sitting down — the repair will tear open again. The same applies to leather that has shrunk irreversibly due to decades of heat and feels like cardboard: the material will break next to the treated area upon the first flex. We prefer to say this beforehand rather than afterwards, because both cases will not improve with good intentions and three layers of binder.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe third limit is safety-relevant and non-negotiable. Seat bolsters with integrated side airbags have a predetermined breaking seam that must tear open precisely in the event of deployment. Any binder, filler, or top coat will stiffen the material there — none of those have any place on that seam. Such seams, detached covers, and saggy cushions are upholsterer work. Also be careful with perforated leather for seat ventilation: the binder will clog the fine pores if applied too heavily, and with the pores, the function disappears.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnd an honest assessment of expectations: this is workshop chemistry, not a weekend polish. The sequence of degreasing, priming, filling, coloring, top coating, and additives follows the data sheet, not intuition, and the order is not optional. If you don't want the effort, you are better served with a color refresher for light cases — or with a professional detailer who does the surface in one pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhen the filler is your first step\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo checks on the damaged area clarify the decision faster than any product description: run your fingernail over it once, and place a drop of water on it once.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf the drop beads up and the nail doesn't catch anywhere, while the surface still feels rough, dull, and fibrous — then COLOURLOCK \"Binder\" (Neutral) is exactly right, and that is before any color comes into play. If the drop soaks in, your leather is open-pored and this category is the wrong one. If the nail catches in a crack, start with the \u003ca href=\"\/es\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-reparatur-leder-fuellstoffe\"\u003ebody filler\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf the surface is stable again afterwards, the condition of the color determines the next step: only become dull, then the \u003ca href=\"\/es\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-faerben-farbauffrischer\"\u003ecolor refresher\u003c\/a\u003e is enough; visibly worn off, then the \u003ca href=\"\/es\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-faerben-deckende-lederfarbe\"\u003eopaque leather color\u003c\/a\u003e and the top coat over it. If you don't want to assemble the components individually, you can find matched combinations in the \u003ca href=\"\/es\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-sets-reparatursets\"\u003erepair kits\u003c\/a\u003e. One level up are all the brand's color stages: \u003ca href=\"\/es\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-faerben-lederfarben\"\u003eBack to COLOURLOCK leather colors\u003c\/a\u003e, and you can find the complete range under \u003ca href=\"\/es\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-faerben\"\u003eDyeing \u0026amp; Finish\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe idea that supports this category is unspectacular and yet makes all the difference: the filler is the only step in the dyeing process that you don't see in the result — and the first one whose absence you do see. Any leather dyeing job that tears open again after months is the bill for a surface that was never load-bearing. Two thin layers of binder on an afternoon decide whether the work above it lasts for years or for a single season.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","products":[{"product_id":"koch-chemie-colourlock-binder-neutral-neutrale-fuellfarbe","title":"COLOURLOCK \"Binder\" (Neutral) — relleno neutro para cuero frágil y agrietado","description":"\u003ch2\u003eCOLOURLOCK Binder (Neutral) — relleno neutro para reparaciones estructurales del cuero\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e¿Qué hace el COLOURLOCK Binder Neutral? — El binder neutro estabiliza las superficies de cuero dañadas, rellena grietas finas y zonas de desgaste, refuerza la estructura y forma la base portante antes de que apliques productos con color como Leather Fresh o Fluid Leather.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCOLOURLOCK Binder (Neutral)\u003c\/strong\u003e es la imprimación profesional para reparaciones estructurales del cuero. El binder afirma la capa de pigmento superior, rellena microgrietas, disimula los daños leves de fibra y prepara el cuero para que los productos con color agarren mejor después y cubran de forma uniforme. En su versión neutra no lleva pigmento y sirve solo para estabilizar, no para corregir el color. Ideal para coche, mobiliario, fashion y todos los cueros lisos pigmentados que muestran desgaste, arañazos o las primeras grietas.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEstabiliza superficies de cuero debilitadas\u003c\/strong\u003e – Afirma la capa de pigmento y evita que las pequeñas grietas se abran más.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eIguala las microestructuras\u003c\/strong\u003e – Rellena las zonas de desgaste finas y te deja una superficie más lisa como base de reparación.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBase neutra para el color\u003c\/strong\u003e – Sin pigmento, sin tinte – puro refuerzo estructural antes de Leather Fresh o Fluid Leather.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eTecnología del binder \u0026amp; cómo funciona en cuero desgastado\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBinder Neutral\u003c\/strong\u003e usa ligantes flexibles y de alto agarre que penetran en las zonas dañadas de la capa de acabado y construyen ahí una nueva estructura elástica. Mientras el cuero se vuelve microscópicamente frágil con el tiempo por roce y UV, el binder actúa como un „primer-filler“ reparador: une las partículas de pigmento sueltas, cierra las pequeñas roturas y evita que siga deshilachándose. Según Koch-Chemie, la capa se mantiene elástica para que el cuero conserve su movilidad natural. El binder neutro no cambia ni el color ni el grado de brillo — solo aporta la estabilidad estructural que hace que las capas de color posteriores agarren mucho mejor.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003ePreparación, aplicación \u0026amp; la secuencia de reparación correcta\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAntes de usar el \u003cstrong\u003eBinder\u003c\/strong\u003e, el cuero debe estar bien limpio y desengrasado para que el relleno penetre de forma uniforme. El binder lo pegas fino con una esponjita, un tampón o un pincel y lo vas montando en varias capas finas, hasta que la superficie vuelve a notarse estructuralmente firme. Entre capa y capa déjalo secar un momento para que no queden zonas desiguales. En daños algo más profundos puedes lijar suave en medio para optimizar la lisura. Tras la fase de binder llega el color: Leather Fresh para retoques ligeros o Fluid Leather para reparaciones más intensas. Solo sobre una superficie estabilizada estos productos cubren uniforme y aguantan mucho.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eResultados, usos típicos \u0026amp; diferencia con los productos con color\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTras la aplicación, la zona queda más lisa, más resistente y mucho mejor preparada para refrescar el color. \u003cstrong\u003eBinder Neutral\u003c\/strong\u003e entra en juego allí donde hay daño estructural: laterales de asiento, volantes, cantos de muebles, las zonas más castigadas de bolsos y chaquetas. No sustituye una reparación de color completa — para eso son ideales las variantes con color de la serie Binder o Leather Fresh. Neutral es a propósito la base „invisible“ que optimiza estructura, firmeza y agarre. Sobre todo en el interior del coche pone los cimientos para que las reparaciones posteriores no se descascarillen ni queden a manchas.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePreguntas frecuentes sobre el COLOURLOCK Binder (Neutral)\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003e¿El binder colorea el cuero?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNo. La versión neutra no lleva ningún pigmento y sirve solo para la estabilización estructural.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003e¿El binder es lo mismo que la pintura para cuero?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNo. El binder es un producto de relleno y refuerzo. Para retoques de color usas Leather Fresh o Fluid Leather.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003e¿Cuántas capas hacen falta?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDe una a varias capas finas según el daño. Lo importante: trabajar siempre con poco producto y dejar secar bien.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003e¿Puedo usar el binder sin primer?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCon buenas condiciones de agarre, sí. En superficies difíciles o con mucha silicona conviene Leather Primer antes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003e¿La reparación con binder dura más?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSí. Las superficies estabilizadas fijan mejor el color y son menos propensas a volver a abrirse.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003csmall\u003eÚltima actualización: 02.12.2025 — Autor: Daniel (Detailing1)\u003c\/small\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Koch-Chemie × COLOURLOCK","offers":[{"title":"Neutral \/ 1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":56320202899791,"sku":"D1-KCX-481-1L-01","price":49.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"Neutral \/ 250ml","offer_id":56320202932559,"sku":"D1-KCX-481-250ML-01","price":18.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/481-1L-01_1.png?v=1762116834"}],"url":"https:\/\/detailing1.eu\/es\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-faerben-fuellfarbe.oembed","provider":"Detailing1","version":"1.0","type":"link"}